- Fresh electrolyte (nominal + high density is desirable)
- Distilled water.
- Electrolyte density meter (hydrometer). Small!!! Great you are not nasosëte the battery electrolyte.
- The charger can provide small (0.05 -0, 4A) charging currents. I used the simplest self-burst-power supply from a tape recorder, a tester as ampere and voltmeter plus powerful block of resistors to adjust the charging current. comment: wait a normal charging can give small currents. Chick "kolkhoz" do
- Desulfatiruyuschaya additive to the electrolyte.
- Enema and pipette for filling purposes.
- Zasulfatirovannost plates - battery capacity drops to almost zero
- Destruction of coal plates-when charged electrolyte is black.
- Circuit plates-the electrolyte in a battery section, the section is heated boils away. (Severe cases, but sometimes is not hopeless)
- Peremerzshy battery-swollen hips, electrolyte when charging immediately boils (multiple circuit plates)-here is no help, Amen, God rest his soul, the Lord!
Rinse it as long until no grit washed coal (hope this time will come, otherwise stop this masochism). When washing is often the closure plates removed, and we move on to paragraph (3) of paragraph (2). After washing and shaking out any debris from the interior of the battery proceed to paragraph (1), namely, the elimination of salt deposits on the plates of the battery. Follow the instructions to the additive. My experience may be different from what you read in the instructions.
Next I'm doing this:
- • Fill the battery electrolyte nominal density (1.28 g / cc).
- • Dope, from the amount of the battery (see instructions)
- • Give electrolyte squeeze the air out of the sections, and additives - the solution for 48 hours (!), If necessary, top up the electrolyte to the specified level. By the way, the additive can be dissolved in the electrolyte to fill the battery, of course, if it is well dissolved.
- • Connect the charger (do not forget to remove the cork!). BUT we will not charge! NOT NOW! First we will drive him on a cycle "charge-discharge", or "training" that is charged and discharged him before it returns to normal capacity. Expose the charging current in 0.1 A and monitors the voltage at the terminals. Do not allow the electrolyte to boil or heat! If necessary, reduce the charge current, gas bubbles and overheating destroy the battery! Charge until the battery voltage reaches 2.3 - 2.4 V for each section, ie a 12-volt battery - 13,8-14,4 V.
- Reduce the charging current in half and continue to charge. Battery stops charging if within 2 hours of the electrolyte density and voltage at the terminals remain unchanged.
- We bring to the nominal density of the electrolyte refilling high density (1.4) or distilled water.
- Discharge the battery current through the bulb at about 0.5 A-1A to the voltage at the terminals to 1.7 volts per cell. For 12-volt battery, this value will be 10.2 V, for 6 volt 5.1 respectively. Available units of the discharge current and discharge time compute capacity of our battery. If it is below par, then:
- Repeated cycles of charge from the start as long as the battery capacity is closer to par.
- Add a little more into the electrolyte additives and close the hole battery.
Recommendations for battery maintenance:
- Level is checked and its density. At least a couple times a season! Usually overcharge electrolyte boils, and you have topped up dist. water. At low temperatures, especially if, after a cold night starter barely turns, raise the density of the electrolyte, but not more than 1.4!
- In no case do not leave it to winter with a scooter in the cold garage! It can be nipped by the frost, and a guaranteed death for the battery!
- Rated charging current of the battery is 0.1 of its capacity in ampere-hours. But better low current over a long time to charge.
Well, I think, everyone! I hope my tips and tricks to help you save your nerves, time and money.
give somethings here